Panama's Special Bocas del Toro- another world

The Bocas del Toro archipelago, is an enchanting group of islands approximately 35 km off Panama’s Caribbean coast, located at latitude 9.35° N and longitude 82.25° W. The archipelago consists of nine major islands and over 200 smaller cays and islets

Isla Colón: Central part of the archipelago, lat 9.40° N, long 82.27° W.
This is the main island with Bocas del Toro Town (known as just Bocas Town), is the capital and offers bank, shops, cafes, bars and restaurants hospitals and easy access to all of other islands.
Isla Solarte: just east of Isla Colón, on the way to Isla Bastimentos at Lat 9.35° N, Long 82.24° W.
A peaceful retreat popular for snorkelling and diving, especially around Hospital Point.
Isla Bastimentos: Approximately 3 km southeast of Isla Colón, lat 9.33° N, long 82.18° W. Known for the township of Old Bank and its natural beauty, including Red Frog Beach and Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park.
Zapatilla Cayo Grande and Zapatilla Cayo Meno: 10 km southeast of Isla Bastimentos, lat 9.20° N, long 82.10° W.
Two uninhabited islands known for white sand beaches and clear waters and are usually visited by tourists and locals on day trips.
Isla Popa: 10 km south of Isla Cristóbal, on the eastern side of the archipelago, lat 9.20° N, long 82.18° W.
It is a very remote island offering an escape to nature and a glimpse of indigenous culture.
Cayo Agua: Southeastern edge of the archipelago, lat 9.14° N, long 82.12° W.
Pristine island ideal for those seeking tranquillity and authentic local experiences

Summary

Why it should be visited: The area offers an enchanting blend of natural beauty, vibrant local culture, and diverse wildlife, with pristine beaches, clear waters, and rich marine life that make it a paradise for snorkelling, diving, and eco-tourism
Negatives: The area can be challenging to navigate due to limited infrastructure, occasional price gouging targeted at tourists, and some concerns about safety, particularly regarding petty theft.
Would I return?: Yes, I would return to further explore the islands and immerse myself in the local culture, although it might not be my top choice due to the occasional challenges faced

Getting There by Air

a man taking a selfie in front of an airplane

a view of a harbor from an airplane window

To reach this idyllic destination, most visitors fly into Bocas del Toro “Isla Colón” International Airport (BOC), also known as José Ezequiel Hall International Airport. Air Panama and Flytrip offer direct flights from Panama City (Allbrook Airport) and SANSA from San Jose, Costa Rica.

Getting There by Ferry and Bus

From Panama City:

There is a ferry service that connects the the port of Almirant on the mainland with Bocas del Toro on Isla Colon or you can take a water taxI. There is a 10-12 hour overnight bus from the Allbrook bus station in Panama City to Almirante. The ferry ride is about 30-45 minute

From Costa Rica:

Bus Service: Travelling from Costa Rica to Bocas del Toro is also possible by bus San José, Costa Rica. You ride to the border town of Sixaola. After crossing the border into Panama at Guabito, you continue by bus or taxi to Almirante, where you can catch the ferry or water taxi to the islands. The total journey time is approximately 8-10 hours, depending on the border crossing and connections.

Getting Around

From Isla Colón, you can easily access all the islands in Torres de Bocas via water taxis, which operate frequently between the islands. They are generally on demand and will pick you up wherever you hail them and drop you where you want to go. Prices are semi-fixed and much higher for tourists than locals. Often, people will grab the phone number of a favourite taxi operator to organise pick-ups or drop-offs. Many resorts have boats to drop guests at various destinations.

The journey is part of the experience, with stunning views of the surrounding islands’ turquoise waters and lush greenery.

a body of water with trees and a blue sky

Bicycles are a popular choice on the larger islands. Often, you will find walking is easier. Many resorts offer complimentary bikes to their guests. For those looking to venture further, operators in Colón, or your hotel, resort, or guesthouse, can organise guided tours and private boat charters, providing easy access to more remote areas.

Top Ten Sights

1. Starfish Beach (Playa Estrella): A beautiful beach on Isla Colón known for its clear waters and large starfish. Sadly, the starfish population is in decline, and no one seems too concerned. Large boats can come right up to the beach, causing disruption to the starfish.

2 Red Frog Beach: Located on Isla Bastimentos, this beach is famous for its namesake red frogs and its stunning natural beauty. I enjoyed this beach twice.

a person sitting on a couch under a wooden canopy

3. Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park: A protected area offering pristine beaches, vibrant coral reefs, and lush rainforests teeming with wildlife, including monkeys (which I did not see).

4 Cayo Zapatilla: A pair of uninhabited islands within the marine park, perfect for snorkelling, swimming, and soaking up the sun.
5 Dolphin Bay: A calm bay where you can often spot playful dolphins in their natural habitat.
6 Bluff Beach: A more secluded beach on Isla Colón, ideal for surfers and those looking to escape the crowds.
7 The Bat Cave (Nivida Cave): A thrilling underground cave on Isla Bastimentos, filled with bats and unique rock formations.
8 Cacao Farms: learn about traditional chocolate-making processes and taste some of the world’s finest chocolate.
9 Hospital Point: A popular snorkelling spot with clear waters and diverse marine life, located near Isla Solarte.

10 Bocas Town (Isla Colón): The vibrant heart of Bocas del Toro, filled with colourful buildings, local markets, and lively bars.

Food and Drink

Bocas del Toro offers a rich culinary scene that blends traditional Panamanian flavours with international influences. Seafood is a staple, with fresh catches like snapper, lobster, and shrimp featuring prominently on menus. Check out authentic Panamanian dishes like patacones (fried plantains) and sancocho (a traditional chicken soup).

a man sitting at a table with a plate of food and a bottle of water

The islands are famous for their tropical cocktails. For rum drinkers (I am not one), try a Coco Loco, a refreshing blend of rum, coconut water, and lime served in a coconut shell. Many beachside bars offer Happy Hour specials, making enjoying a drink while watching the sunset easy.

Coffee

Panama is known for its high-quality coffee, and Bocas del Toro is no exception. There are many Café options in Bocas Town. Many use locally sourced beans. The relaxed atmosphere makes it a great spot to start your day or unwind in the afternoon. Some cacao farms also offer coffee tours, where you can learn about the entire coffee-making process from bean to cup.

Safety

Bocas del Toro is generally safe for tourists, and the local community is friendly and welcoming. As long as you exercise common sense and take basic precautions, you should have a safe and enjoyable visit. However, petty theft occurs quite regularly, so keep an eye on your belongings, especially in crowded areas like Bocas Town or at the beach. Authorities urge tourists to stick to well-travelled paths, avoid deserted areas at night, and consider taking a taxi or water taxi rather than walking alone.

A bigger issue is the price gouging that appears to occur with some regularity. There are many stories of prices that seem to rise based on perceived wealth if the tourist. Do your research and be prepared to haggle calmly.

Usual Prices

Water Taxi (between islands): $5 USD
Bike Rental: $5 to $10 USD per day
Meal at a Local Restaurant: $10 to $20 USD
Cocktails: $5 to $8 USD
Coffee: $2 to $4 USD (I did see $7 USD)
Hotel Room (Mid-Range): $80 to $150 USD per night
Hotel Room (Luxury): $200+ USD per night

In Panama, you use USD. If you pay cash and get change, your change will be a mix of US and Panamanian coins. The Panamanian coins are useless outside Panama, so get rid of them as soon as you can. I used VISA everywhere, with a couple of instances of waiting for the signal to connect, but there were no other issues.

Torres de Bocas, offers a range of accommodations. The more isolated resorts leans towards the more upscale while accommodations in the settlements such as Bocas del Toro and Old Town on Bastimentos can be more basic.