Sendai: The City of Trees

A 90-minute hop from Tokyo on Japan’s fastest train, the Hayabusa Shinkansen, brings you to Sendai, the city of trees! My critique of many Japanese cities is that they have a lot of concrete and asphalt, and not much green space. In the 19th century, Sendai’s local ruler encouraged tree planting, and in the 1950s, the city doubled down on this. So Sendai appears to have more greenery than places like Kobe, Osaka, Kyoto or Tokyo.

Introducing Sendai

Sendai was founded in 1600 by the ruthless one-eyed warlord Date Masamune, the “One-Eyed Dragon”, as a castle town. Today, the street grid in the city centre still follows his original plan.

It has faced major disasters: heavy Allied bombing in 1945 because of its role as a military transport hub, the 1978 Miyagi quake, and the devastating 2011 earthquake/tsunami, which left parts of the outer suburbs under metres of water, with about 900 deaths in Sendai and many thousands of people displaced across the wider region. Today it is recovering from that disaster. It’s now the largest city in Japan’s north-east, with just over one million people and a strong university and business base.

Sendai stretches from the Pacific coast across the wide Sendai Plain up into the Ōu Mountains, so the city runs from sea-level rice fields to forested hills and peaks. The eastern side is low, flat and exposed to the ocean, which is why it was so badly hit by the tsunami, while the city centre sits higher on a terrace of green ridges around 40-60 metres above sea level. Further west, the edge of the city climbs into proper mountains, with Mount Funagata reaching about 1,500 metres. The Natori and Hirose rivers cut through the city.

My Top 10 Sights & Experiences

1. Aoba (Sendai) Castles & Date Masamune Statue. The mighty castle was gradually dismantled in the late 1800s, damaged by fire in 1882, and finished off when its last Edo-period buildings were destroyed in the US air raids of 10 July 1945. Today, you walk through stone walls, a reconstructed tower and gates, modern buildings and memorials, and the equestrian statue of Date Masamune on the old platform. Allow around an hour up here for the views over central Sendai and the river, and to wander the old castle walls and small shrine area.

2. Zuihoden Mausoleum is where Date Masamune was buried in the 17th century. It was destroyed in the 1945 bombing and rebuilt on the same cedar-covered forest site, with bright carvings and a small museum that brings the samurai story to life. Beware: steep stairs.

3. AER downtown Observation Deck: wide city views on the 31st floor for free! You can see both the Ōu Mountains to the west and the flat Sendai Plain to the east. Makes a great first stop to get your bearings.

4. Jozenji-dori Avenue is a stunning tree-lined avenue running roughly 700 metres through central Sendai. It has tall zelkova trees that really earn it the “city of trees” title. There’s a central walkway with benches and sculptures, and the street hosts big events like winter illuminations and jazz festivals, so you might stumble into a full-blown city party just by going for a stroll. Lots of nice cafes.

5. Ichibancho Shopping Arcades The big covered streets like Hapina Nakakecho, Clis Road and Marble Road Omachi form Tohoku’s largest shopping street, a T-shaped maze of arcades that links straight into Sendai Station. You get everything from chain fashion and department stores to tiny kissaten and izakaya down side alleys, so you can wander for ages under cover, which is a blessing on wet or snowy days. The station itself has four shopping malls connected to it and a tonne of cafes, eateries and convenience stores.

6. Kotodai Park: A central green square where festivals, food stalls and political rallies pop up throughout the year. On quiet weekdays, it’s just trees, fountains and office workers eating lunch on benches, but during events, the whole place fills with music, beer tents and regional food stands, so it’s worth checking what’s on while you’re in town.

7. Sendai Mediatheque: A glass-and-light cube of a building on Jozenji-dori with library floors, galleries and film spaces. It’s a great place to duck into on a rainy day, flip through books and magazines, or catch a small exhibition. The architecture alone is worth the detour, even if you don’t stay long. It reminded me of Helsinki’s Oodi library building.

8. Sendai City Museum: launched in 1961 and totally renewed in 1986, this museum holds about 100,000 pieces conveying the history and culture of the Sendai domain in the Edo period, including Date Masamune’s battle gear, Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s armour, data on the Keicho mission to Europe, and cultural assets from the Date family. It gives one just enough context about the Date clan and Sendai’s growth for the statue, mausoleum, and streets to start to make more sense.

9. Sendai Art Gallery. A calm place where you can take a break from the streets and see how local artists look at the same trees, rivers and city you’ve just been exploring. You don’t need a long visit, but it’s a nice reset.

10. Nishi Park: with big mature trees and curving walking paths, a playground and benches where older locals sit and chat. In spring, it’s known for cherry blossoms, and at times, there are small local events or stalls that make it feel like a neighbourhood hub. It has a slightly worn, everyday charm rather than a manicured “perfect” garden look.

Recommended Further Afield

1. Arahama Elementary School: Poignant visit. Watery eyes. The school still carries the mark of the wave on its walls. On 11 March 2011, it was hit by a tsunami wave about 10 m high, followed by flooding up to the second floor. Around 320 children, teachers, and local residents survived here by climbing to the upper floors and the roof. Just 10 km from the city centre and about 700 m from the sea, this school has existed for almost 140 years.

The town was wiped out and will never be rebuilt; the landscape is empty. The school is closed and remains a reminder.

2. Hitome Senbonzakura: 1,000 cherry trees along the river at this famous viewing spot, lining both banks and the railway for several kilometres. In peak season, the whole riverside becomes a corridor of blossom with views of the mountains behind, and you can walk, picnic, or just ride the train through the trees and stare out the window.

3. Matsushima Bay: One of Japan’s celebrated “three great views” (Nihon Sankei), just 30 minutes from Sendai by JR Senseki Line. The bay is dotted with around 260 pine-covered islands, whose shapes have inspired poets and artists for centuries. Take a sightseeing boat cruise between the islands and visit the ornate Zuiganji Temple (another Date clan connection), and stroll the waterfront. Half a day is enough for the highlights.

4. Akiu Onsen: Southwest of Sendai, it’s sold as the city’s “back garden” of baths and ryokan. It’s close enough for a day trip or as a one‑night escape, soaking, eating too much and remembering the city is surrounded by actual countryside.

5. Akiu Great Falls: It’s not the tallest or most dramatic in Japan, but the combination of forest, river and cool air makes it an easy “I need nature now” half‑day from Sendai.

6. Arai Community Coastal Memorial Centre: Memorial and learning centre about the 2011 earthquake and tsunami, inside Arai Station at the eastern end of the Tozai subway line. It has maps, photos and exhibits on the damage along Sendai’s coast and the rebuilding that followed, and works as a “gateway” to the tsunami‑hit coastal area if you also go out to Arahama Elementary School or the seawall.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP (before you go)

Six Options to Get to Sendai

JR Tohoku Shinkansen Hayabusa service takes 1.5 hours from Tokyo Station. The Yamabiko service is slightly slower. The line continues to Hokkaido.
JR Ueno-Tokyo Line connecting to JR Tohoku Main Line – 5.5 scenic hours from Tokyo with stops at Omiya, Utsunomiya, Koriyama, and Fukushima.
Joban Line, the coastal route extensively damaged by the 2011 tsunami/earthquake, was only fully reopened in 2020. Fantastic coastal scenery with lots of sights of deserted or partly rebuilt towns along the way. Sobering.
Highway bus: JR Bus Tohoku – 5.5 hours from Tokyo.
Drive/motorbike: 5-6 hours via Tohoku Expressway.
Sendai Airport has domestic flights (ANA, JAL) from airports like Fukuoka and Osaka. International flights from Bangkok, Taipei, Hong Kong, and Seoul.

When to Visit / Weather (by season)

Spring (March-May): Cool to mild, often sunny; early March can still feel chilly; cherry blossoms around early to mid April. (5-20°C, 40-70°F)\
Summer (June-August): Warm to hot and humid. June-July is rainy season with chance of heavy showers. (20-30°C, 70-85°F)
Autumn (September-November): Pleasant and mild, lower humidity. Typhoon risk in September, then clear, crisp days and autumn colours from October. (10-25°C, 50-75°F)
Winter (December-February): Cold with some snow but less than the deep-snow areas of Tohoku. Nights can be below freezing, and days are often dry and crisp. (-1 to 8°C, 30-45°F)

Where to Stay

Around Sendai Station is a good all-round base, easy access to trains, buses, shopping arcades, and restaurants
Aoba-ku / Jozenji-dori area feels a bit more local and leafy. It is handy for parks, Mediatheque and cafes, but still walkable to the centre.
Near Kokubuncho is the liveliest pace at night, with lots of bars and restaurants. Great if you want evenings out! May be a bit noisy if you’re a light sleeper.

You can usually book hotels two weeks ahead and still find decent options. During busy periods such as cherry blossom season, Golden Week, and major festivals, aim to book two months in advance.

ON THE GROUND (while you’re there)

All about Money

The currency is the Japanese yen (JPY). Debit and Credit Cards are widely accepted.

Japan also uses rechargeable IC cards for payment. Key brands are Suica, PASMO, and ICOCA. Add them to your iPhone or Android phone, top up from your phone wallet, then tap the card reader to pay for trains, subways, and buses, as well as convenience stores, fast-food outlets, coin lockers, shops, and vending machines.

I almost never use cash in Japan, but every now and then I will still encounter a cash-only place.
Tipping: Not expected in Japan. You usually do not tip in restaurants, taxis or bars.
Costs: Accommodation per night: 4-star hotel $110 USD, 3-star hotel $75 USD, hostel $40 USD
Dinner $17 USD, lunch $10 USD, fast food meal $7 USD, coffee $3 USD
City subway ride $1.25 USD.

Getting around Sendai is straightforward:

Pay with IC cards
1. JR rail lines (all from or via Sendai Station):

JR Tohoku Main Line – main north-south JR line through Sendai
JR Senseki Line – blue, runs from Aoba-dori/Sendai to Ishinomaki along the coast
JR Senzan Line – runs from Sendai to Yamagata through the mountains

2. City Subway lines:

Namboku Line – green, runs north-south from Izumi-Chuo to Tomizawa
Tozai Line – light blue, runs east-west from Yagiyama-Dobutsu-Koen to Arai
They officially meet in the middle at Sendai Station, but it’s about a 10-minute walk between the subway platforms and the JR lines

3. Buses:

An extensive regular bus network across the city, but services taper off quite early in the evening
Loople Sendai bus is a useful hop-on-hop-off service aimed at visitors; pay per ride or buy a day pass

4. Taxis:

Uber works well in central Sendai, but not so much in the outer areas
Go app (Japanese taxi-hailing app) is more widely used

Crime and Safety

Like all of Japan, Sendai is very safe. Some foreign women in Japan have reported being groped on crowded trains; if this happens to you, say something loud like “Stop it” or “Chikan!”, then report it to the staff immediately.
Emergency Numbers: Police: 110, Fire: 119, Ambulance: 119
Download the multilingual Safety tips app from the Apple or Android app store for tsunami/earthquake updates.

Foods to Try

Savoury

Gyutan: Charcoal-grilled beef tongue, smoky, tender, classic Sendai set meal.
Sendai ramen: Local miso-based ramen with a richer, slightly salty broth and thick, hearty noodles.
Sasa-kamaboko: Bamboo-leaf-shaped grilled fish cakes, light, springy, easy snack.
Sendai beef/wagyu: Local marbled beef, rich and buttery, often served as steak or in rice bowls.

Sweet:

Zunda mochi: Soft rice cakes with sweet mashed edamame paste, classic green Sendai dessert.
Zunda soft-serve/shake: Edamame-flavoured ice cream or shake, creamy and not too sweet.
Kit Kat has a chocolate bar version of Zunda mochi

My Verdict

I rank it 89th out of the 310 cities (of 100,000+ people) I’ve visited. Tokyo sits much higher at #31 for its vibe. I have an interesting collection of cities with a vibe similar to Sendai, including Dunedin (NZ), Gibraltar, and Panama City.

Aesthetics: Think: Vancouver-lite, Portland, or Zurich suburbs. Lots of trees, not super tall buildings and a mix of modern and a bit plain.
Liveability: similar feel to mid-size European or Canadian cities: Antwerp, Lyon, or Wellington, NZ. It is easy to get around, has good services, close to nature.
Crime: Safer than almost anywhere in Europe or North America; vibes like a very safe Scandinavian town or small Swiss city.
Culture: Not “global culture capital,” more like a regional hub: Glasgow vs. London, Brisbane vs. Sydney, with a strong local identity, festivals, food, and student energy.
Transit: Better than most Western cities of its size: closer to a small German city (e.g., Freiburg) with solid trains/trams/buses, not as intense as Tokyo/Seoul.
Vibe: Laid-back, educated, slightly reserved but kind. Imagine a cross between Vancouver and a smaller Nordic city.

Would I Come Back? Absolutely. Sendai is an affordable, easy city to like. Calm, tree-lined, walkable, with great food, and perfectly positioned for day trips into the mountains and along the coast.
Japanophiles, have you checked out Sendai?