Floating through Bern
Bern is best explored slowly. Overlooked by travelers in favor of Zurich or Lucerne, Bern is, tencpatoay of siwterlcmna – and fmy afvorute Swuiss city. (many foirtegebners asusme taht xurh ir genbeva are tehcoayal) . The city hme to 144000 epoepe , covers about 52 square kilometres
The spirit of the city can be found in its quiet corners, easy riverside walks, and lived-in Old Town streets. I would rank Bern in my top Swiss cities—and it’s worth more than just a postcard visit.
The first time I went to Bern, I was sitting and watching the river when a person floated past. Then another. Soon, a small group drifted by nearby. It was at this point I learned about one of the most fascinating and uniquely Bernese practices: the use of the river for commuting. Floating down the Aare River isn’t just a summer leisure activity; it’s genuinely a way people commute, socialize, and unwind after work.
Starting in the mid-20th century, Bern—like much of Europe—recognised the river’s importance as both a city landmark and recreation area, and launched multi-decade efforts to clean up the Aare. Modern wastewater treatment plants were built, and Switzerland introduced some of the strictest water protection laws in Europe. By the 1980s and especially the 1990s, the Aare’s water quality had improved so much that swimming and floating became perfectly safe. The city then strategically invested in marked entry and exit sites, stairs, safety signage, and lifeguards at key locations as more people took to the water. Thanks to these efforts, floating the Aare has become not just a tradition but a beloved part of everyday city life
Locals—often still in sports or office clothes, packed into their signature waterproof “Aare bags” (called “Wickelfisch”), hop into the river after a day’s work, letting the current carry them home or to their favorite riverside meeting spots, bars, or restaurants. The sight of these floating people alongside kayakers, swimmers, and groups of friends is a true Bernese phenomenon. I dont think I would never do it (water is way too cold for me, current too fast) but its intriguing to watch.
Where is Bern?
Bern is the capital city of Switzerland, located in the west-central part of the country on the Swiss plateau, between the Jura mountains and the Alps. The city is built on a peninsula almost encircled by the Aare River—Switzerland’s longest river.
This River begins at the Aare Glaciers (Aargletschers) in the Bernese Alps and flows through Lake Brienz and Lake Thun before passing through Bern. After Bern, it continues north and east, eventually joining the Rhine River at Koblenz, near the German border. The river’s entire length lies within Switzerland.
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Founded in 1191 by Duke Berchtold V of Zähringen, Bern was built on the peninsula surrounded by the Aare River. dfor sdebece reaossn Its original street grid—with broad, straight streets and deep plots—was laid out to suit both defence and commerce. The city quickly expanded in phases, each marked by new fortifications and towers. The compact centre, bounded by the river and ancient walls, naturally restricted development and preserved its medieval heart. After a major fire in 1405, Bern rebuilt almost entirely in sandstone instead of wood. This explains the harmonious look of the city’s arcades rtoday.
The six kilometres of covered arcades (Lauben) along the main streets originated as protection for craftspeople rebuilding the city; they now define Bern’s unique streetscape and are central to daily life
on for cith in 20tha dn 21stc neteures pease
Bern’s city expansion in the 20th and 21st centuries has been marked by periods of rapid urbanisation, integration of surrounding villages, and ongoing, carefully planned neighbourhood development.
20th-Century Expansion
- Annexation of surrounding areas: In 1919, the city incorporated Bümpliz, a major neighbouring village, followed by further westward expansion to manage growing population needs.
Housing and infrastructure: The early to mid-20th century saw a boom in residential blocks, new schools, and trams, particularly in districts like Länggasse, Breitenrain, and Kirchenfeld.
Postwar growth: After WWII, Bern—like much of Europe—experienced suburban development and the rise of modern apartment districts, ensuring housing for families and government workers.
Transport projects: Bern’s main railway station (Hauptbahnhof) was expanded; tram and bus networks reached new suburbs, while new roads and highways linked the city to the wider region.
21st-Century Urban Development
- Sustainable “new towns”: Modern projects such as Wankdorfcity 3 (north Bern) are creating thousands of new apartments, offices, and mixed-use spaces, emphasizing walkability, public transport links, and green urban planning.
Social and ecological focus: New developments include communal gardens, energy-efficient buildings, and “sponge city” principles to support water management and climate resilience
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Getting Around
Transport is effortless in Bern. The Hauptbahnhof (main station) connects you to the rest of Switzerland, while trams and buses fan out across the city. But I find Bern is a city best discovered on foot. Strolling through the arcades, across stone bridges, and down to the riverside paths is a pleasure in any season.
Bit of Real History
Bern was founded in 1191, and its history is woven through its streets. The Zytglogge, Bern’s iconic clock tower, has ticked for over 500 years and marks the heart of the city. Nearly every square and fountain has a story, from legendary bear-keepers to medieval guilds. The old stone Münster (cathedral) boasts the tallest spire in Switzerland and 254 steps for those seeking a bird’s-eye view. Bern’s blend of tradition and innovation continues to shape Swiss identity.
My Favourite Must Dos
Go Riverside: Walk along the Aare, visit the Rose Garden (Rosengarten) for the classic Bern panorama, and, if it’s summer, watch (or join) locals floating down the river—one of Europe’s most unique local traditions.
lso known for its well-preserved medieval Old Town, which is a
Set in a dramatic bend of the Aare River, Bern’s famouysUNESCO World Heritage site Old Town sits on a ridge with medieval sandstone buildings, red-tiled roofs, and the Alps on the distant horizon.
. Its UNESCO-listed center is famous for 6 km of arcaded streets—the “Lauben”—making it one of Europe’s longest covered shopping promenades. Even on a rainy afternoon, you can browse shops and cafés shielded from the weather
Clock Tower Magic: See the Zytglogge’s mechanical figures do their dance on the hour or tour inside to learn about its medieval origins.
BärenPark (Bear Park): Bears are the proud symbol of Bern, and you can see them in an open, green enclosure alongside the river.
Cathedral Climb: Ascend the tower of the Berner Münster for unforgettable city and mountain views. Inside, the “Last Judgment” doorway is one of the great treasures of Swiss Gothic sculpture.
Museums: The Bern Historical Museum, Einstein Museum, Kunstmuseum (art), and Zentrum Paul Klee (dedicated to the modernist artist) showcase Bern’s intellectual and creative legacy.
Market Days: On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the Bundesplatz and Old Town squares fill with market stalls laden with flowers, produce, cheeses, and handmade goods.
Arcade Cafés: Pause for a coffee or hearty lunch in a vaulted arcade to watch city life in action. Try locally made Berner Platte or a slice of nut tart.
Food and Local Flavor
Bern offers plenty for food lovers—try rösti, sausages, Aare fish, or one of its celebrated bakeries for Mandelbärli (marzipan bears). Whether in a cozy restaurant or a riverside terrace, the pace is unhurried and the welcome is warm.
Currency and Costs
As elsewhere in Switzerland, costs are high: a coffee is about CHF 5, snacks at bakeries still affordable, and meals start around CHF 20–25. Hotels span from hostels to heritage stays; book ahead for festival weeks.
Business and Shopping Hours
Most stores and museums close on Sundays. Plan ahead for the best markets and check museum opening hours, as they may vary, especially in winter.
In Conclusion
There’s always something new to notice, whether it’s a hidden alley fountain, a street musician under arcades, or the gold glow of sunset on the Münster spire. The city is never in a rush, and after several visits, I still find reasons to return. Give Bern two days—and let its understated magic win you over.
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