In high school, I attended a talk by a South African exchange student. Two things stayed with me: his description of apartheid in its final years, and his description of the Garden Route. I knew I had to visit. This route traces the edge of Africa, where the continent ends and the Indian Ocean takes over. In this post, I start in Cape Town. I detail the roughly 800 km between that city and Port Elizabeth, the next major city. The Journey Rolled out of Cape Town just after dawn, Table Mountain at our backs.…
Place Reviews (Thursday)
Category Archives for Place Reviews (Thursday).
Pretoria (Tshwane): The Capital That Surprised Me
I arrived in Pretoria with low expectations. South Africa had been a mixed bag. The delights of the Garden Route, a superb Johannesburg, falling in love with Cape Town and almost getting mugged there, wonderful stops in Hermanus and Durban. And then the disappointments: Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) and Mossel Bay both left me cold. My South African friends, the same ones who had warned me off Port Elizabeth, had mixed things to say about the country’s administrative capital. I gave it a day and a half. It gave me considerably more than I expected. Pretoria…
Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth): A City That Feels Lost.
I had just had an amazing week on the Garden Route, exploring wineries, seeing whales, and enjoying hikes, coffee, food, and South African hospitality. Enjoy some of the photos! When my Baz Bus minibus (great service by the way) reached Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth, we arrived in a very different world. A power failure had struck. Streets were dark, traffic lights blank or flashing. The driver found a pothole as big as a car. Motorbikes zipped around it, but the bus and trailer couldn’t. On a darkened street, he reversed and turned around, taking the long…
Riga: The Baltic Capital That Punches Above Its Weight
I wasn’t sure what to expect from Riga. I’d heard it described as “small,” which completely undersells it. This city punches above its weight. Great architecture everywhere, working markets, good food, more affordable than much of Europe, and centeuetsi if history you can still see and feel on every street. Not a blockbuster destination, but genuinely enjoyable. I visited in winter, which surprised everybody; I was glad I did. Riga’s Complicated HistoryFounded in 1201 by German crusaders on the Daugava River, it became a wealthy medieval trading port linking Russia and Western Europe. The Old…
Terrific Turku, Finland’s Historical Capital. All You Need to Know
Turku is a low-key river city known for its university life and as a gateway to medieval Finland and the beautiful Turku Archipelago. Turku has tens of thousands of students across multiple universities and this creates a fun, youthful atmosphere. Quality‑of‑life index scores Turku slightly higher than Helsinki overall (Turku 215 vs Helsinki 206), with better scores for healthcare, safety, and housing affordability Nice range of museums. I visited in the depths of January winter, but plan to return in summer! Eight Hundred Years Old Turku is Finland’s oldest city, with its origins usually…
Rovvaniemei: Timber, Fire, and Reinvention
Welcome to the ArcticMy second time on the Arctic Circle! Rovaniemi, in Northern Finland, sells hard on Santa and the northern lights. I came for the Northern Lights, the Ice Hotel, to ride one of the most northerly train routes, cross the Arctic Circle again and Santa Claus (in that order), and discovered that beneath the Christmas branding, there is a real Lapland hub for winter and summer activities, warm people, and experiences I’d never had before. But no lights. Backstory: Timber, Fire, and ReinventionPeople have lived around present‑day Rovaniemi since the Stone Age, but…
Cape Town: Beautiful and Complicated
I came to Cape Town hoping to like it and ended up loving it. I want to encourage other visitors to look beyond the surface here. It’s a complex and fascinating place. Introducing the City The road from the modern Cape Town airport passes through the sprawling townships of Langa, Nyanga, and Gugulethu, dense settlements of shacks with varying degrees of access to electricity and water, and unemployment rates over 50%. Literally around the corner are the well-lit, well-patrolled suburbs of Sea Point and Camps Bay, where mind-bogglingly priced sea-view homes cling to the slopes…
Rating a city: From First Crush to Favourites
How do you rate a city? A good memory? The food? Its beauty? The first time I landed in Paris, I fell hard. I loved the art, the tree‑lined streets, the river, the metro, the food and markets, and even the people (yes, I mean Parisians). Twenty‑three visits later, I still love Paris. Barcelona was the same. Since then, there have been many other cities I’ve been smitten with, a small number of places that bored me, and a very small number I couldn’t wait to leave. Most sit somewhere in the middle, with moments…
Tintin made me visit Geneva- Enjoying this Swiss Treasure
An introduction to Tintin and his Geneva When I was a child, I was obsessed with the adventures of Tintin, a fictional reporter from Belgium who traveled to almost every continent (we never saw him make it to Australia). On his travels usually accompanied by his dog Snowy, solving crimes, spy-rings and flying to the Moon. The series author Herge was fanatical about real historical detail (after his first three terrible books). In “The Calculus Affair,” Tintin dashes to Geneva to rescue his friend Proifessor Calculus who had traveled there for a science conference. In…
Helsinki: The Northern Jewel of the Baltic
Founded in 1550 by King Gustav I of Sweden, Helsinki has grown into a stunningly beautiful and highly enjoyable city, celebrated for its great quality of life. Situated on the southern coast of Finland, Helsinki spans 715 square kilometers (276 square miles) and overlooks the Baltic Sea. The city’s coastal setting, with over 300 islands dotting its archipelago, combined with lush green spaces, offers a striking contrast that defines its unique character. Comparable in size to other European capitals like Oslo and Dublin, Helsinki is divided into several districts, each with its unique charm, from…
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