I just spent two amazing weeks in Finland, which remains one of my favourite countries in the world. This trip: Helsinki, Rovaniemi, and Turku. I’m still processing everything I experienced. The timber architecture of Rovaniemi, the frozen Baltic where ships should be, and now this: my Moomin pilgrimage across 80 years of Finnish magic. All my friends know I’m a huge Moomin fan. The Moomins are a family of warm‑hearted troll‑like creatures created by Finnish artist and writer Tove Jansson (1914–2001). Across novels, picture books, comics and murals, she uses Moominvalley to explore friendship, freedom…

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