Welcome to the ArcticMy second time on the Arctic Circle! Rovaniemi, in Northern Finland, sells hard on Santa and the northern lights. I came for the Northern Lights, the Ice Hotel, to ride one of the most northerly train routes, cross the Arctic Circle again and Santa Claus (in that order), and discovered that beneath the Christmas branding, there is a real Lapland hub for winter and summer activities, warm people, and experiences I’d never had before. But no lights. Backstory: Timber, Fire, and ReinventionPeople have lived around present‑day Rovaniemi since the Stone Age, but…
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Cape Town: Beautiful and Complicated
I came to Cape Town hoping to like it and ended up loving it. I want to encourage other visitors to look beyond the surface here. It’s a complex and fascinating place. Introducing the City The road from the modern Cape Town airport passes through the sprawling townships of Langa, Nyanga, and Gugulethu, dense settlements of shacks with varying degrees of access to electricity and water, and unemployment rates over 50%. Literally around the corner are the well-lit, well-patrolled suburbs of Sea Point and Camps Bay, where mind-bogglingly priced sea-view homes cling to the slopes…
Mind-blowing Experience on Thailand’s most Perilous Rail Route
I have always had a passion for trains and train travel. Over the years, I’ve ridden trains in 76 of the 90 countries I’ve visited, from Finland to Morocco to the USA, Chile, and New Zealand. A few years ago, I made it my mission to ride every rail line in Thailand, leading to incredible adventures—from bustling Bangkok to cities like Chiang Mai, and serene rural stations. However, the southernmost railway line had eluded me for a long time. This line connects the border town of Sungai Kolok to one of the most isolated cities…
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