September 8, 2024, by Martin J Cowling
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Overview
Budapest has long been one of my favorite cities, and this winter visit marks my tenth time here. My first visit was back in 1990, when the city was still shaking off the remnants of communism and transitioning to capitalism. Nearly 35 years later, it’s remarkable to witness the changes the city has undergone. From a city on the cusp of reinvention to a European cultural hub, Budapest has evolved dramatically, though not without its growing pains. What hasn’t changed is the city’s magnetic charm—its stunning architecture, the beauty of the Danube River, and the warmth of its people still captivate me, whether in the bright spring, the heat of summer, or the crisp chill of winter.

That said, I’ve noticed some unfortunate shifts as well. Many of Budapest’s historic buildings are showing signs of wear, the streets have become noticeably dirtier, and there seems to be no consistent regulation of signage across the city. Large, garish signs now clutter the façades of many historic buildings, with little thought given to the aesthetics or heritage of the structures beneath. It’s a small but significant detractor from the city’s timeless beauty, and I can’t help but feel that this could be managed better.

• My Overall Rating: 93%
• My Ranking out of my top 244 Cities: 25th place
• Why it should be visited: Budapest offers a unique blend of history, stunning architecture, vibrant cultural life, and thermal baths. Its dramatic position along the Danube and iconic landmarks make it a must-see.
• Negatives: Some buildings are in need of restoration, and the unregulated signage detracts from the city’s historic charm.
• Would I return?: Absolutely, every season has something unique to offer.

Location and Orientation
Budapest, the capital of Hungary, is divided by the Danube River into two parts: Buda and Pest. The city is sprawling, but the main attractions are concentrated in the central areas along the river. Buda, on the west bank, is hilly and home to the famous Castle District, while Pest, on the flatter east side, is where you’ll find the Parliament building, the city’s nightlife, and most of the shopping.

Navigating Budapest is easy thanks to its efficient public transport system, which includes buses, trams, and the iconic yellow metro line, one of the oldest in the world. The city’s landmarks are all walkable if you’re staying in the center, and there are plenty of river cruises that offer a beautiful way to take in the sights from the water.

Vibe
Budapest’s atmosphere has always been electric, with a vibrant cultural life pulsing through the city. In the 1990s, you could feel the energy of a city being reborn, grappling with the shift from communism to capitalism. Today, while that frenetic energy has settled, Budapest remains a city alive with art, music, and history. However, on this winter visit, I couldn’t help but notice that some of the buildings that once gleamed with fresh promise are now looking tired. The streets are grittier, and the contrast between the well-preserved areas and those that need attention is sharper than ever.

One concerning trend is the proliferation of unregulated signage on historic buildings, which detracts from the overall aesthetics of the city. Colorful, mismatched signs clutter the façades of important architectural landmarks, and the lack of uniformity or control is jarring. This is an issue Budapest could address to maintain its status as one of Europe’s most beautiful cities.

Despite this, Budapest retains its allure, and there’s something particularly magical about visiting in winter when the holiday markets and thermal baths take center stage.

Getting There
Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport (BUD) is located about 16 kilometers (10 miles) from the city center, with good connections to most major European cities. From the airport, the 100E Airport Shuttle or a taxi will get you into the heart of the city quickly.

Budapest is also a major railway hub, with international trains connecting it to cities like Vienna, Bratislava, and Prague. The city’s main train stations—Keleti, Nyugati, and Déli—are all centrally located and easy to navigate.

Getting Around: 85%
Budapest’s public transportation system is fantastic and easy to use, with buses, trams, and four metro lines crisscrossing the city. The iconic Tram 2 runs along the Pest side of the Danube, offering stunning views of the river and Buda Castle. The metro is one of the oldest in Europe, and riding the M1 line (the yellow line) feels like stepping back in time. Walking is also an excellent way to explore the city, especially around the Castle District and along the river.

My Top Sights in Budapest

1. Buda Castle District: Walking around the Buda Castle is a must. The cobbled streets and panoramic views from the castle hill overlooking the Danube and Pest are some of the most stunning in the city.
2. Castle Hill Funicular: The historic funicular that runs between the Chain Bridge and Buda Castle is a fun and scenic way to travel up the hill, offering great views along the way.
3. Hungarian Parliament Building: An architectural masterpiece, this Gothic Revival building is a must-see. Guided tours are available and offer a fascinating glimpse into Hungary’s history and politics.
4. National Gallery of Art (Buda Castle): Located within Buda Castle, this gallery houses an extensive collection of Hungarian art, ranging from medieval works to contemporary pieces.
5. Museum of Fine Arts: One of the city’s top cultural institutions, it boasts a vast collection of European art, including works by masters like El Greco, Raphael, and Goya.
6. History Museum (Budapest History Museum): Located in Buda Castle, this museum explores the city’s past, from Roman times through the medieval period to the 20th century. It’s a fascinating journey through Budapest’s complex history.
7. Museum of Modern Art (Ludwig Museum): A fantastic destination for contemporary art lovers, showcasing works by both Hungarian and international artists.
8. House of Terror Museum: This sobering museum documents the horrors of Hungary’s fascist and communist regimes and offers a powerful, moving experience.
9. Dohány Street Synagogue: The largest synagogue in Europe, located in Budapest’s Jewish Quarter, with a museum and a Holocaust memorial.
10. Fisherman’s Bastion: A Neo-Gothic terrace on Castle Hill offering stunning views over the Danube and Pest.
11. Public Transport Museum (Underground Museum): Budapest’s metro system is one of the oldest in the world, and this museum, located along the historic M1 metro line, celebrates the city’s public transport history.
12. Children’s Railway and Cog Railway: Both are located in the hills to the north of the city. The Children’s Railway is run by children under adult supervision, while the Cog Railway offers scenic trips through the Buda Hills.
13. Heroes’ Square and City Park (Városliget): This grand square commemorates Hungary’s historical figures. Behind it lies City Park, with green spaces, Vajdahunyad Castle, and the Budapest Zoo.
14. Margaret Island: A peaceful retreat with gardens, walking paths, and a small zoo.
15. Park Areas to the North of Downtown: The northern part of the city has several parks, ideal for leisurely walks or picnics. The Buda Hills also offer hiking opportunities with beautiful views of the city.
16. Great Market Hall: A bustling indoor market offering local produce and traditional Hungarian foods.
17. Ruin Bars: Budapest’s quirky ruin bars, located in abandoned buildings, are a must-see for their eclectic décor and unique atmosphere.

olocaust Museum: A poignant museum dedicated to the memory of Holocaust victims, offering an in-depth look at Hungary’s role in World War II and the impact on the Jewish population.Jewish Quarter and Ghetto Wall: The Jewish Quarter is home to the historic ghetto wall and several memorials to the Holocaust. It’s an important area to visit for those interested in the city’s Jewish heritage.Walking Along the Riverfront: One of the best ways to experience Budapest is by strolling along the Danube. The riverfront offers spectacular views of both Buda and Pest, with highlights including the Parliament building and Chain Bridge.River Cruises: There are several river cruises available, ranging from short sightseeing trips to longer dinner cruises. A river cruise offers a fantastic perspective of Budapest’s skyline and is particularly beautiful at night when the buildings are illuminated.Margaret Island: A green oasis in the middle of the Danube, perfect for walking, jogging, or enjoying a picnic. The island has gardens, a small zoo, and historical ruins.
Nature Park North of Downtown: The area to the north of the city, including the Buda Hills, is great for nature lovers, offering hiking trails, forests, and beautiful views of the city.

1. Buda Castle District: The medieval heart of the city, this area is home to Buda Castle, Matthias Church, and the Fisherman’s Bastion, offering incredible views of Pest across the Danube.
2. Parliament Building: An architectural masterpiece, this Gothic Revival building on the banks of the Danube is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.
3. Széchenyi Thermal Baths: Budapest is famous for its thermal baths, and Széchenyi is the largest and one of the best. The outdoor pools are especially magical in winter, surrounded by steam in the cold air.
4. Chain Bridge: This suspension bridge connects Buda and Pest and offers some of the best views in the city, especially at night when it’s illuminated.
5. St. Stephen’s Basilica: This grand cathedral is one of the tallest buildings in Budapest, and its dome offers panoramic views of the city.
6. Great Market Hall: A bustling indoor market where you can buy local goods, fresh produce, and traditional Hungarian food.
7. Fisherman’s Bastion: This Neo-Gothic terrace on Castle Hill offers stunning views over the Danube and is a perfect spot for photography.
8. Heroes’ Square: A grand square with statues commemorating Hungary’s most important historical figures. Behind it is Városliget (City Park), home to Vajdahunyad Castle and the Budapest Zoo.
9. Margaret Island: A peaceful retreat in the middle of the Danube, with gardens, walking paths, and a small zoo.
10. Ruin Bars: Budapest is known for its eclectic ruin bars, housed in abandoned buildings and decorated with quirky, mismatched furniture. Szimpla Kert is the most famous, but there are many hidden gems scattered throughout the city.

Food
Hungarian cuisine is hearty and full of flavor, and Budapest has no shortage of restaurants where you can try the local specialties.

• Goulash (Gulyás): A classic Hungarian stew made with beef, paprika, and vegetables. It’s perfect for warming up on a cold winter day.
• Paprikash: A creamy chicken stew flavored with paprika, typically served with dumplings.
• Lángos: A deep-fried dough topped with sour cream and cheese, often eaten as a snack or street food.
• Strudel (Rétes): Hungarian strudels come in a variety of sweet and savory flavors. The apple and poppy seed versions are my favorites.
• Chimney Cake (Kürtőskalács): This spiral-shaped pastry is cooked over an open fire and coated with sugar, cinnamon, or nuts. It’s often sold at winter markets and is best eaten fresh off the grill.
• Café Culture: Budapest’s café scene is legendary. Historical cafés like Gerbeaud and Café New York offer elegant settings where you can sip coffee and enjoy pastries while soaking in the city’s history.

Crime and Safety
Budapest is generally a very safe city for tourists, though, as with any major city, it’s important to be aware of pickpocketing in crowded areas. The areas around the train stations and the touristy parts of the city center are the most likely places for petty theft. However, I’ve always felt secure walking around Budapest, even late at night.

Climate and Weather
Winter in Budapest is cold but magical. Temperatures hover around 0°C (32°F), and it’s not uncommon to see snow. While the weather can be brisk, it’s the perfect time to enjoy the thermal baths or visit one of the city’s Christmas markets. The holiday lights and festive atmosphere make winter a special time to visit, despite the chill.

Costs
Budapest remains one of the more affordable capital cities in Europe, though prices have risen in recent years, particularly in the more tourist-heavy areas. Here’s a general breakdown:

• A meal at a mid-range restaurant: 3,500-6,000 HUF ($10-$17 USD)
• A coffee at a café: 600-1,000 HUF ($2-$3 USD)
• A chimney cake: 1,200-1,800 HUF ($4-$6 USD)
• Four-star hotels range from $80-$150 USD per night, though prices can spike during popular times like Christmas and summer.

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